New Look 6145, View B: Now with Sleeves! Plus, Fitting Issues.

I’ve completed New Look 6145 (size 18, no alterations), aside from steaming the sleeve seam and sewing the bottom hem. This was my first time setting in sleeves…which I realize I did backwards/inside out because my fabric looks the same on both sides. Of course, I realized this after I’d hand-sewn a catch stitch hem on both sleeves. Viewing this dress as a draft, I decided to just continue with constructing the dress. It fits fine in the upper back and upper chest areas, but it is quite voluminous and shapeless in the full bust and waist areas. See here:

New Look 6145 front
So roomy in the bust and waist areas! I look like a rectangle.

Peep my crafting gloves! Best gift ever for a crafter.

I know the African wax cloth, which is a quilting weight cotton, is to blame for the stiff drape (anti-drape) of this dress. I have a curvy figure: 41″ full bust, 33″ waist, 43″ hips. I want to show it off, not hide it in a cocoon. I need to address this, possibly with taking in the sides and adjusting the intake of the darts. I will also shorten the dress. As a shorty, I look better in a just-above-knee-length dress, and I know with even with the hem, the dress as it is will come to the bottom of my knees.

The sleeves look okay here, but when I raise my arm at all, the hem of the sleeve digs into my arm. There’s no give there at all. I think I will shorten the sleeves so that I have the ability to move. In my next version, I will adjust the sleeve to be a bit wider.

Here’s the back:

New Look 6145 back
This is okay, aside from my janky lapped zipper issues at the top. No one will notice that. This was my second lapped zipper, I believe.

When I went to try on the dress again after attaching both sleeves, it was a bit of a struggle to zip it up. The dress was fighting me a bit. I think it’s the sleeves’ fault. Also, the sleeves are sort of hanging off the side of my shoulder. Shouldn’t the sleeve cap fall at the top of the shoulder? I think this is part of the reason why my arms’ mobility is limited in this dress. Should I do a narrow shoulder adjustment here? (Also, this picture really shows off the back of my neck. You can tell I do a lot of reading and computing.)

I want to make this again in a woven, maybe a flowy rayon challis, once I make the adjustments. I also want to try this in a knit. This seems like an appropriate dress style for work, so I want to make this thing happen!

As always, I welcome your feedback and suggestions. I am going to try redoing the topstitching on Vogue 9021 after trying out different tensions and stitch lengths on a scrap of the broadcloth, and I think I will not topstitch all the way down, since that is causing the weird puckers at the bottom. Maybe I will tack that extra facing flap down, so that it stays out of the way.


9 thoughts on “New Look 6145, View B: Now with Sleeves! Plus, Fitting Issues.”

  1. Shorter length would help the proportion but be cautious because your print is so big you might make things worse. Put on a nice shoe with a couple of inches in the heel before you shorten. A narrow shoulder adjustment could help bring up the sleeves into the body. If the style is a dropped shoulder then raising the sleeve up onto the body could end up not having enough sleeve cap.
    I looked up the vogue pattern. Would you like some pictures to help you get the facing better where it joins the sleeve underarm?


      1. Thanks! I did a 1/4 inch narrow shoulder adjustment and shortened the length of the dress pieces by 1/2 inch. I also lowered the darts by 1 inch. I am going to try a second draft this week! I think I may have to take in the front and back darts a little, but I will try that on the actual second draft.


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