I’ve completed New Look 6145 (size 18, no alterations), aside from steaming the sleeve seam and sewing the bottom hem. This was my first time setting in sleeves…which I realize I did backwards/inside out because my fabric looks the same on both sides. Of course, I realized this after I’d hand-sewn a catch stitch hem on both sleeves. Viewing this dress as a draft, I decided to just continue with constructing the dress. It fits fine in the upper back and upper chest areas, but it is quite voluminous and shapeless in the full bust and waist areas. See here:
Peep my crafting gloves! Best gift ever for a crafter.
I know the African wax cloth, which is a quilting weight cotton, is to blame for the stiff drape (anti-drape) of this dress. I have a curvy figure: 41″ full bust, 33″ waist, 43″ hips. I want to show it off, not hide it in a cocoon. I need to address this, possibly with taking in the sides and adjusting the intake of the darts. I will also shorten the dress. As a shorty, I look better in a just-above-knee-length dress, and I know with even with the hem, the dress as it is will come to the bottom of my knees.
The sleeves look okay here, but when I raise my arm at all, the hem of the sleeve digs into my arm. There’s no give there at all. I think I will shorten the sleeves so that I have the ability to move. In my next version, I will adjust the sleeve to be a bit wider.
Here’s the back:
When I went to try on the dress again after attaching both sleeves, it was a bit of a struggle to zip it up. The dress was fighting me a bit. I think it’s the sleeves’ fault. Also, the sleeves are sort of hanging off the side of my shoulder. Shouldn’t the sleeve cap fall at the top of the shoulder? I think this is part of the reason why my arms’ mobility is limited in this dress. Should I do a narrow shoulder adjustment here? (Also, this picture really shows off the back of my neck. You can tell I do a lot of reading and computing.)
I want to make this again in a woven, maybe a flowy rayon challis, once I make the adjustments. I also want to try this in a knit. This seems like an appropriate dress style for work, so I want to make this thing happen!
As always, I welcome your feedback and suggestions. I am going to try redoing the topstitching on Vogue 9021 after trying out different tensions and stitch lengths on a scrap of the broadcloth, and I think I will not topstitch all the way down, since that is causing the weird puckers at the bottom. Maybe I will tack that extra facing flap down, so that it stays out of the way.